xTool S1 40W vs 60W CO2 Laser: An Honest Comparison from Someone Who Bought Wrong Twice
I bought the wrong laser machine twice. First time was a 60W CO2 unit in 2021—I genuinely didn't need that much machine. Second time was an underpowered diode that couldn't handle the acrylic jobs I was getting. Total damage: roughly $6,800 between what I lost reselling the CO2 and the rework on jobs my first diode couldn't finish.
So when people ask me about xTool S1 40W vs a 60W laser cutter, I don't give them the "it depends on your needs" answer. Of course it depends. But you deserve more than that.
Here's the real comparison, broken into four dimensions. I'll give you my verdict on each.
What I'm Actually Comparing (and Why These Four Dimensions)
On one side: the xTool S1 40W—a desktop diode laser engraver with a 40W module. Plug it in, connect to your laptop, start cutting.
On the other: a 60W CO2 laser cutter—the blue-and-white cabinet machines you see in every laser forum. More powerful, more infrastructure required.
I'm comparing them across material capability, total cost of ownership, beginner-friendliness, and physical footprint. Those are the four things that actually determine whether you'll be happy with your purchase six months in.
Round 1: What Can Each Machine Actually Cut?
xTool S1 40W:
40W is on the high end for diode lasers. Real-world capability: cuts through 10mm basswood plywood, engraves dark acrylic cleanly, handles leather, glass etching, and some coated metals. For paper laser cutting—everything from 80gsm copy paper to 270gsm cardstock—it's genuinely excellent. Low power settings give you fine control without scorching edges.
What it can't do: cut transparent acrylic. The diode wavelength (around 450nm) passes straight through clear material without heating it. I learned this the hard way in 2022—a $420 order of clear acrylic tags that came out with barely a scratch on them.
Also can't handle thick metal or high-reflectivity materials. Don't expect it to cut through 3mm aluminum, because it won't.
60W CO2:
CO2 lasers operate at around 10,600nm wavelength, which transparent acrylic absorbs beautifully. It cuts like butter. Thick wood, dense leather, rubber, MDF—all day long. The cutting speed on thick materials is 3-5x faster than any diode.
The catch most people don't realize: it can't cut bare metal either. The CO2 wavelength reflects off most metals. If metal engraving matters to you, the S1's diode actually wins here.
My verdict: If you're primarily cutting transparent acrylic or anything thicker than 12mm, CO2 wins without question. If your material mix is varied—wood today, metal tomorrow, leather next week—the S1's flexibility is hard to beat. And for paper laser cutting specifically, honestly, the S1 gives you more control at low power.
I still don't fully understand why different acrylic colors behave so differently under the same settings. My best guess is it relates to pigment additives, but I've never seen a definitive answer.
Round 2: The Real Cost (Not Just the Sticker Price)
This is where I made my biggest mistake. I only looked at the machine price.
xTool S1 40W total cost: The machine plus common accessories (honeycomb bed, air assist, rotary attachment) runs roughly $1,600-2,000 depending on bundles and sales. That's your total. No chiller, no external exhaust ducting required (though ventilation is still essential—don't skip it).
60W CO2 total cost: Machine alone is $3,000-5,000. Then add: water chiller ($200-600), air compressor ($100-300), exhaust system ($800-2,000 if you need proper ducting), and eventually a replacement tube ($300-800, typically every 1,000-2,000 hours of use).
When I bought my CO2 back in 2021, I calculated everything except the chiller's electricity cost and the ventilation renovation. Total first-year spend ended up around $7,800—and my order volume at the time couldn't justify that.
My verdict: For a small shop, startup maker, or anyone testing the waters, the S1's total cost is dramatically lower. CO2 only makes financial sense once you're running enough production hours to amortize the infrastructure.
Round 3: Which One Can a Beginner Actually Operate?
Every article about the "best laser engraver for beginners" lists specs and features. None of them mention what it actually feels like on day one.
S1 day-one experience: Unbox, set up, focus the laser, install the software, run a test cut. That's it. My first project—a paper bookmark—went from unopened box to finished piece in under 90 minutes. The default settings are conservative enough that you'd really have to try to destroy something.
CO2 day-one experience: You need to align the mirrors, set up water cooling, route your exhaust, calibrate the tube. None of this is technically difficult, but it's a full day of setup before you cut anything. And you'd better understand what you're doing, because misaligned mirrors can crack or fire the lens.
A friend of mine runs a handmade leather goods business. She wanted to engrave logos onto her products—a straightforward task. Someone told her to buy a CO2. She spent two weeks just getting the machine operational before she could engrave her first piece. She told me later: "I should have started with a desktop machine."
My verdict: If you want to be productive on day one, S1 wins by a mile. But if your core need is transparent acrylic or thick wood, the learning curve on CO2 is worth climbing—you'd just be learning it alongside your first deadlines.
Round 4: Space and Infrastructure Reality
This one's the most practical and the least discussed.
S1 footprint: Sits on a normal workbench. One person can move it. Runs on standard household current. Takes up roughly the space of a large printer.
60W CO2 footprint: Needs a dedicated half-room minimum. The chiller and exhaust add more floor space. You'll want a permanent ducting solution going outside. If you're in a garage, you're also dealing with noise and potential water line freezing in winter.
If you're working from home, an apartment, or a shared workspace, CO2 may simply not be physically possible—even if the budget is there. I've seen someone spend $2,000 on ventilation retrofitting for a space that ultimately couldn't handle the ducting requirements. The machine got sold at a loss.
So Which One Should You Actually Buy?
Stop asking "which is better." Ask yourself three questions:
- What's your primary material? Transparent acrylic or thick stock → CO2. Mixed materials including metal engraving → S1 40W.
- How many hours per day will you actually run it? Under 3 hours → S1 makes more financial sense. Over 5 hours of cutting thick material → CO2 pays for itself.
- Can you set up proper ventilation? No dedicated space → S1. Dedicated workshop → CO2 is viable.
One thing I'll say that might be slightly biased: there's nothing wrong with running a desktop diode while your business grows. I know several makers who built their entire operation on a single xTool S1 before adding a CO2 later. Machine size doesn't correlate with business ambition.
Whichever you choose—buy scrap material first. Run your test cuts on waste pieces, not customer orders. That's the lesson that cost me $6,800 to learn, and I'd rather you didn't repeat it.
